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FEATURES
Some reflections on antiquarian and out-of-print books
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The first is The Art of London Cookery by John Farley, principal cook at the famous London Tavern. I have a facsimile, printed in 1988, of the original book which was first published in 1783. The full title is proudly announced inside: The London Art of Cookery and Housekeeper’s Complete Assistant on a New Plan made plain and easy to the understanding of every housekeeper, cook and servant in the Kingdom. |
Georgian meals were enormous affairs, consisting of several ‘courses’ with a dozen or so dishes in each course. Farley’s book has a suggested menu for each month, featuring seasonal produce. Do you know what ‘Solomon-gundy’ is? It’s an eighteenth century salad composed of chicken, herrings, boiled eggs, capers, pickled oysters - sounds delicious!).
Or ‘White Soup’? Veal stock with rice, ground almonds and cream.
There are so many tempting recipes in the book. I haven’t yet created a Georgian dinner party, but it would be fun to do, albeit with a smaller number of dishes.
| My next choice is a wonderful pocket-sized book called Practical Morality or A Guide to Men and Manners Consisting of Lord Chesterfield’s Advice to His Son. This is a well-loved and well-used book with some foxing. It is fascinating to leaf through the pages from this book printed in 1813 and wonder who else has studied the sage words. My favourite section is that on Graces - so important to the genteel behaviour expected of a gentleman in those times! |
Chesterfield was a man of considerable consequence in his day, but his name lives on not so much in his life’s achievements, but in a body of personal letters written to his illegitimate son Philip Stanhope and never intended for publication. They were sold by Philip’s widow for the sum of £1500 (a huge amount in those days) and became an instant best-seller!
| My last choice is a little volume called KIDDER'S RECEIPTS OF PASTRY & COOKERY FOR THE USE OF HIS SCHOLARS. Kidder (1665-1739) was a pastry-maker who lived in the eighteenth century. His book details traditional British hearty fare - pies, roasts - all with extremely elaborate trimmings. It is a beautiful little book, printed in 2002, a facsimile of a book dating from the 1740s from the collection of Oxford University’s department of the History of Art. One aspect that particularly appeals is that the original book’s elegant copperplate is reproduced. I haven’t tried any of the recipes yet - but am intrigued by ‘Bombarded Veal’ and ‘Tansey’. |
As you can imagine, with two serious book lovers in the family, finding more bookshelf space is an ongoing problem …
Kathy Stockwin and Julian Stockwin
work together as a close literary team. Julian writes the Thomas Kydd series of nautical adventure fiction. Set
in the Napoleonic era, the series tells the story of one man’s journey from pressed man to Admiral. His current
book (the fourth in the series) is Mutiny, published in the UK by Hodder & Stoughton last November. It will
be reviewed here soon.
Julian Stockwin's next book is Quarterdeck, will be published in the UK by Hodder & Stoughton in November
2004.